An affably inexpensive Mexican wine from a rare variety.

Out of all the Mexican wines that I love and have enjoyed throughout the years, the L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah is remarkable for being affably inexpensive. Whenever I’m in Mexico, I try to drink more Mexican wines than any other variety (why would I pay import fees by buying European bottles I can get for way cheaper in Barcelona?) And while I also try US and Argentina wines, I have a sweet spot for those from the Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California, like this here bottle.

The Petite Sirah by L.A. Cetto is one of their best-known entry-level red wines, among a Merlot and a Cabernet Sauvignon. However, I think the Petite is the one that offers the most bang for your buck since there is no other bottle of its kind at this price level. While the Merlot and the Cabernet are decent expressions, the Petite has a unique spicy and plummy taste that you really can’t find on offer from other wineries in the country.

Petite Sirah, also known as Durif, is a somewhat rare variety. It was invented in France, by accident, when a botanist noticed that Peloursin and Syrah vines from his nursery cross-pollinated. Though considered a relatively low-quality grape in France and practically non-existent today, this ‘little grape that could’ made its way to the New World, where it caught on chiefly in the Australian and Californian climates.

I find it an absolute score that the guys at L.A. Cetto, currently Mexico’s biggest winery, decided to bet on this rare grape. They are currently one of only two Mexican wineries making wine from it, and the one other, Pouya, offers its very limited Petite Sirah for $44 bucks.

As to L.A. Cetto, in case you’re unfamiliar with them, they were started only in 1928 by an Italian immigrant who fled Mussolini’s Italy at the age of 24, making his way to Mexico as a part of a small exodus of farmers fed up with recent agrarian reforms. This bold man, Ángelo Cetto, came from a family of modest but meticulous winemakers from Trento, dating their wine work back to 1801.

Following that tradition started in Italy, the Mexican vineyards were expanded by each generation thereafter, now covering over 1,200 hectares (approximately 3,000 acres) in Baja California, including areas like Valle de Guadalupe, Valle Redondo, and San Vicente. As of 2024, L.A. Cetto produces around 1 million cases of wine per year.

Making:

The winemaking process for L.A. Cetto’s Petite Sirah follows traditional methods with modern touches. The grapes are harvested from vineyards in Valle de Guadalupe, where the Mediterranean-like climate and sandy loam soils provide excellent growing conditions for this robust variety. 

After careful selection, the grapes undergo temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, followed by aging in American oak barrels for 6 months, and then another 6 months in the bottle. This aging process helps soften the naturally firm tannins of Petite Sirah while adding subtle vanilla and spice notes that complement the grape’s inherent character.

Tasting: This wine consistently delivers above its price point, showing the potential of Mexican winemaking when tradition meets the right terroir. Let’s break down its characteristics:

Eye: Like most Petite Sirahs, this wine shows an impressively deep purple-black color in the glass, with a density that barely lets just a bit of light through. The wine’s legs are slow and thick, hinting at its full body and moderate alcohol content of 13.5%.

Nose: Immediately, you’re greeted with intense aromas of ripe black plums and blackberries, followed by subtle hints of black pepper and vanilla from the oak aging. An interesting touch of violet flowers and a hint of dark chocolate develops as the wine opens up in the glass.

Mouth: The first sip reveals why this wine is such a remarkable value. It’s full-bodied with firm but well-integrated tannins that give the wine excellent structure without being overwhelming. The flavor profile follows through from the nose with concentrated dark fruit flavors – particularly blackberry and plum – complemented by cocoa, black pepper notes, and a subtle smoky character. The finish is surprisingly long, leaving a pleasant combination of fruit and spice that lingers.

Pairing:

I pair this wine primarily with robust Mexican dishes—it’s particularly excellent with carne asada tacos or mole poblano. The wine’s structure and fruit intensity can withstand spicy foods, while its tannins cut through rich, fatty meats beautifully. Beyond Mexican cuisine, it works wonderfully with barbecued meats, strong cheeses, or dark chocolate desserts.

Here’s a detail sheet: 

Producer: L.A. Cetto

Region: Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico

Grape Variety: 100% Petite Sirah (Durif)

Alcohol Content: 13.5%

Aging: 12 months in American oak barrels

Serving Temperature: 16-18°C (60-64°F)

Average Price: $12-15 USD

Production: Part of the 1 million cases of total winery production

Certification: DO Valle de Guadalupe

---

Here’s where to buy:
In Mexico, this wine is available at major supermarkets like Soriana, Walmart, and La Europea. It is usually priced between 180 and 220 MXN.

In the United States, it’s available through select importers and wine shops, particularly in border states like California, Arizona, and Texas, usually at around $15-20 USD.  

To my knowledge, it’s unfortunately not currently available in Europe. 

¡Salud!