A decent and cost-friendly Rioja with an air of mystery around its name

The Lagunilla Crianza Rioja 2019, which recently hit the shelves, is an okay Rioja. Definitely not a bad wine. It’s not a fantastic wine either, but it’s okay for a €6 bottle, and I’m going to tell you why, while I drink a glass of it myself.

Lagunilla is a winery in Cenicero, La Rioja, founded in 1885 by its name bearer, Felipe Lagunilla. This winemaker was active in the region since at least that year. Several sources now credit him as instrumental among local winemakers in fighting the phylloxera crisis that wrought the region in 1899. 

The winery bustled on, but it doesn’t look like it ever got too big until it was bought by a far larger corporation. Not much exists on Lagunilla prior to this wine being launched under the Marqués de la Concordia brand. You guessed it, Lagunilla was bought by Marqués de la Concordia, or rather, by its owning corporation, The Haciendas Company, in 1994. Before that, it belonged to Diageo; but it doesn’t look like they did a lot with it.

An interesting bit is that Felipe Lagunilla is also referenced in this old site from a family bodega that doesn’t seem to be operating anymore, Valentin Pascual. Up until a few years ago, it was one of the few places in Cenicero that claimed to still make wine in a completely artisanal fashion, like in 1885. One of the bodegas they were using was started by Lagunilla and one Don José María Pascual, whose name is one-half of the seemingly extant bodega’s.

Wild thought, but I’d venture to say that Lagunilla’s original bodega was the one referenced by Valentin Pascual, at the address Doctor Azcárraga 23, while what is now called “Bodegas Lagunilla”, more in the outskirts of the little town of Cenicero (although just an 18-min walk from the center), and a stone’s throw from the Ebro, is indeed a much newer facility owned by Haciendas but carrying the name of the town legend that Felipe Lagunilla seems to be.

I’d guess you’d have to take a wine tour to Cenicero to find out. I may not know what I’m talking about, but from my point of view as a casual drinker who decided to buy this bottle all the way out in Barcelona, it doesn’t seem like the wine in it was made in a place that resembles what Lagunilla started and carries over a century of tradition. You don’t get that vibe from the outside look of the current winery at least.

I’m not sure, but again, all this considered, it doesn’t taste bad at all, for a €6 bottle. I wouldn’t be super sure about their pricier ones, which can range up to €40.

Making:

The Lagunilla Crianza 2019 is made of Tempranillo and Garnacha. After fermentation, it’s aged in oak barrels for a minimum of 12 months, then bottled and left to develop for 24 months before it hits the stores. This is the typical process for it to be called Crianza. 

Tasting:

Eye: Like most good Riojas, it’s got an intense ruby color.

Nose: In the nose, it first gave me vanilla. Then, something approximating creamed corn, then a salty hint that I’ve come to associate a lot with Riojas, which coupled with the creamed corn, made me think of crisps. The last good whiff before I drank some, I got a hint of lemongrass, which I know is even weirder than the creamed corn, but there you have it. 

Mouth: This was my first sip of red wine in over a week, so it gave me good shivers. It felt meaty and very balanced, and I got again the notes of the crisps, but this time with a creamy taste. Maybe a bit of black cherry.

Pairing: I paired it with some steak frites. How can you go wrong with a Rioja and some grilled red meat?

Here’s a detail sheet: Lagunilla-Crianza | Marqués de la Concordia

Here’s where to buy: Lagunilla Crianza Vino Tinto DO Rioja, 750ml : Amazon.es

¡Salud!